Attacked by the Sacred Deer of Nara

Sacred Deer on Grounds of Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

Here are two of Nara's deer serenely cooling themselves in a pond on the grounds of Todai-ji Temple in Nara, Japan. They and the other deer in Nara's huge herd are free to roam the city's historic district.  Make no mistake, these are not just any deer.  They are messengers of Takemikazuchi,  a god enshrined in Nara's Kasuga-taisha Shrine. They are sacred deer.

Nara,  a small city about an hour train ride away from Kyoto, was the capital of Japan from 710-794 CE.  Its eight remaining temples, shrines and ruins form the "Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara", now a World Heritage Site.  Its Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines are magnificent and possess an aura and mystery all their own.  

My first encounter with these sacred deer came outside Nara's Todai-ji temple, a large and ancient Buddhist temple complex, first opened in 752 CE   It houses the world's largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana, Kaibutsu in Japanese.  

Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

Buddha, Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

Buddha, Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

Yet, if you ask most people what they remember most about Nara, it won't be statues.  Statues, no matter how magnificent,  simply cannot compete with living messengers of the gods, the sacred deer.

Author in Todai-ji Temple

This deer, seated with me, showed manners befitting a divine messenger.  That's not the case with all of them.  A sign on the temple grounds cautions visitors.

Sign in Todai-ji Shrine, Nara, Japan

Yet, most of the deer were on their best behavior and posed no danger to anyone.

Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

Special food for the deer is sold at kiosks outside the temple. 

Deer Food Kiosk, Nara, Japan

It's around food that the deers' dark side shows up,  The deer are well-fed, but there are some that cannot get enough and will not accept "no" for an answer.

Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

At one point, I had a small herd following me.  Much to my surprise, I felt one butt me and another bit me in the same place. Yet another, in the photo below, did the unforgivable and tried to take a bite out of my new handbag. 
  

Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

Some of their antics are entertaining.  There was one deer, in particular, who followed close behind and let you know he was there.

Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

 Sometimes you just had to show them who was boss.

Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

A few deer who had been too aggressive one time too many had their horns trimmed, so they couldn't do any real damage.

Deer outside Todai-ji Temple, Nara, Japan

A short distance but a world away is the ancient Kasuga-taisha shrine, founded in 738 AD. Four gods are enshrined there and it is a very holy place. There is a deep sense of mystery in its wooded grounds and the 3,000 moss-covered stone lanterns that line its paths. 

Kasuga-taisha Shrine, Nara, Japan

Lanterns, Kasuga-taisha Shrine, Nara, Japan

Gate, Kasuga-taisha Shrine, Nara, Japan

Even the deer seem to have absorbed the peace of the place.

Kasuga Primeval Forest, Nara, Japan

Here, there is no chasing around and butting or biting for food.  The shrine's deer have managed to learn a unique food strategy- as people pass they bow their heads, a behavior which I'm sure has gotten them as many, if not more, treats as Todai-ji's ruffians.

Deer in Kasuga-taisha Shrine, Nara, Japan

Bowing deer, Kasuga-taisha Shrine, Nara, Japan

I will be back in Nara as soon as I am able.  This divine petting zoo is calling me back and  I won't even mind the few deer nibbles and head butts I'm sure to get.  They are worth it!